I’ve been testing out a few budget-friendly low-power variable optics on a few of my ARs and today we’re going to take a closer look at two of them. the Vortex Strike Eagle and the Burris RT6.

We’re going to see how they stack up against each other and more importantly we’re going to try to find out if the concept of a value priced LPVO is even worth pursuing.  


Before we get into the specifics of these two scopes let’s talk about the basics of LPVOs the LPVO low-power variable optic is one of two different compromise options in the world of AR optics.  Let’s imagine a spectrum of speed versus precision on the one end of the spectrum you have a typical high magnification scope, the most precise option on the other end of the spectrum you have a normal red dot or holographic sight. 

If you’re expecting to use your AR exclusively at long range you’ll be happy with a scope that has a minimum of four times magnification or even higher.

If you’re expecting to use your AR exclusively at close range you’ll be happy with a non magnified reflex sight.

But if you don’t really know what your engagement distance will be or you just want to cover your bases you can compromise.  One option is to use a red dot sight with a flip over magnifier allowing you to punch out a little further with the red dot.  The other option is to use a variable scope with a low power setting that’s as close to 1x as possible allowing you to more quickly and more comfortably acquire and engage targets at close range with a scope. 


I don’t think there is one they are all a compromise of one kind or another so it’s going to depend on your situation and your personal preference.  I’m not even sure which is the best setup for me, i’m still experimenting with it.  I do however really like the LPVO concept for my 16-inch rifle which will circle back to you later. 

One of the most important factors of an LPVO is illumination.  On a normal magnified optic the illumination chiefly helpful to pick out the reticle in low-light.  On an LPVO however it’s also important to be able to use the reticle at speed when on 1x magnification in normal well-lit environments.  In order to be even close to as usable as a red dot at close range in the daytime, an LPVO has to get really bright.  Ideally the 1X setting on an LPVO is as close to a red dot as you can get, and at full magnification 4, 6, 8 or whatever you can take shots as with a normal scope.  When you dial the magnification up the LPVO works just like a normal scope because it is one.  When you zoom all the way out to 1X it doesn’t quite function like a normal red dot.  The nicer the LPVO the closer it gets to a true 1X with minimal distortion and parallax. But the limiting factor here is still the laws of physics,  the light is still passing through a whole bunch of curved glass.

Let’s take a look at our two test subjects: the Burris RT6 and the Vortex Strike Eagle.  Both of these scopes are 1-6x magnification and both retail for the same approximate price.  I bought both of these with my own money but I didn’t pay that much for either one, if you wait for a sale you shouldn’t either. 



I have it mounted to my 16 inch AR carbine with a worn skeleton 30 millimeter mount.  The RT6 uses vs ballistic AR reticle and is second focal plane so the reticle is the same size at any zoom level.  Here’s all the fancy stuff going on with this reticle.  It’s pretty much all great to me, I don’t know what a MOA is, i don’t know what mils are and I have no idea how big a yard is, my house doesn’t even have a yard. 

The important things to me are the nice clean central dot for shooting at long range with maximum magnification and the horseshoes surrounding it for shooting at close range with lowered magnification.  The ballistic AR reticle has trajectory compensation out to 600 yards but in my application I’m focused on 200 yards or less.  With the illumination on the central dot and the surrounding horseshoe light up and get pretty bright, it’s still not as bright as a red dot and it isn’t as fast and easy on the brain. 

The controls on the RT6 are my favorite feature.  The illumination rheostat has an off position in between each of the numbered on positions, so you can set it and forget it.  One click to get to your desired brightness, one click to turn it back off. 

The magnification throw lever is also big and easy to use.  I had no issues changing the magnification on the fly while running or in between strings of fire.  

I also liked the turrets which are protected and are nice and clear, easy to read and easy to use.


In the opposite corner in the green and white trunks is the Vortex Strike Eagle.  I tested this on a 12.5 inch mid length gas AR pistol using Vortexes own 30 millimeter mount.  This is the original version of the strike turkey with Vortexes AR BDC reticle.  Like the RT6 this is second focal plane, on paper the attack pigeon should be simpler than the Burris Ballistic AR reticle but I find it hard to use.  Instead of a clean central dot,  the assault chicken has stadia lines going every which way.  When shooting groups I wasn’t really sure of my reticle placement and it was hard to get a consistent sight picture.  In theory you zero the top horizontal line at 50 and use it as your 50 and 200 yards zero.  The tip of the vertical line extending upwards is your 100 yards zero.  I like this idea a lot when I read about it on the internet but when putting it into practice it turns out, I just like the clean central dot.  

The biggest problem with the Vortex battle goose is that the illumination is underwhelming.  At maximum illumination, the whole reticle illuminates on the AR BDC but even cranked up to 11 with a fresh battery it’s useless in daylight conditions.  The Burris RT6 isn’t as bright as a real red dot but the war sparrow doesn’t even qualify as bright, the reticle is just dark red.  The rheostat on the murder finch doesn’t have the useful intermediate off positions like the RT6 but the illumination is so bad it kind of doesn’t matter.  

The other issue I had with the combat pheasant is that the throw lever has a very low profile nub and it is much harder to change magnification on the fly versus the RT6.  I’m not sure how often you’ll ever have to change magnification in an emergency but it’s still something to consider.  Luckily Vortex has already addressed these issues, there’s a new version of the skirmish vulture 1-6 that has a new reticle with a different illumination pattern.  This one is supposed to be brighter than the old one and it has the same clean central dot and illuminated outer horseshoe layout that I really like on the RT6. It also has an optional extended throw lever, if you’re looking to buy a siege duck, i highly recommend you get the new one, from the looks of things that solves all the problems I had with the original.

So which is better? Between the two of these,  the clear winner is the Burris RT6.  I prefer the controls and the reticle.  However between the new strike eagle and the RT6, the difference could probably be decided by a coin toss, i think I’d still go with the Burris. Thanks to the nice rheostat design and the comfortable throw lever. 

The extended throw lever on the new Strike Eagle looks like an improvement but I still prefer the design on the Burris.  Also the new strike eagle has an extra ounce of weight owing to that throw lever whereas the old one and the rt6 were almost identical and weight.

Both Vortex and Burris have a great warranty and great customer service so I am not worried about manufacturer support for either scope.

If you’ve got one of the new Strike Eagles, let me know how it works!  I’m not going to run out and buy one to start this whole test over again but I am curious how they do.


I think the answer is yes.  I’m not going to claim the RT6 or Strike Eagle are in the same weight class as LPVOs that cost four times as much money but they absolutely do get the job done.

I’ve read criticism of the quality of these cheaper scopes that makes it sound like the glass in them is literally opaque. I checked and the glass in both of these scopes is in fact transparent . More expensive scopes are generally going to have higher quality glass and be clearer and brighter.  But if you look at them enough to tell the difference you probably have too much time on your hands. 

The more immediate difference between cheap and expensive LPVOs is going to be how close the 1X gets to being a true 1X.  If the 1 X magnification setting on the scope is more like a point 9X or a 1.1X, you’re going to get more distortion around the edges. It also matters how restrictive the eye box is since unlike a normal red dot parallax and scope shadow can become a problem.  Based on my experience, the Strike Eagle had slightly more distortion at 1X and the RT6 though neither one was enough to cause me any major problems. 

The last big feature on the more expensive LPVO’s is illumination.  The Burris RT6 is bright enough to be usable in the daytime but some of the fancy LPVOs get very close to being as bright as a red dot.  The fire dot system on the loopholed patrol for example gets very close to being red dot bright, unfortunately the minimum magnification on that scope is 1.25 so you gain some and you lose some.  True 1 X magnification and super bright illumination are features worth spending more money on.

  • If you like the LPVO concept and want to maximize its potential you should consider spending more money to get more scope.  
  • If you aren’t sure if you like LPVOs you might want to start with the R 6 or straight edge to see if the concept even works for you.  
  • For me, I’m very satisfied with the Burris RT6 and I’m going to keep it on my rifle.  The 12.5 pistols however is going back to a red dot.

Muzzleloader Scope vs Rifle Scope

Muzzleloader scope

Are you confused about which is a better choice for you between a muzzleloader scope and rifle scope? In theory, a scope is a scope. Both the muzzleloader scope and rifle scope operate in the same manner with a few interchangeable cases. However, when it comes to features, there are distinct differences.

Knowing the main differences between a muzzleloader scope and a rifle scope can help you choose the right optic to use on your gun. Whether you specialize in modern rifle scopes or are a muzzleloader shooter, choosing the right scope is critical for accurate and precise shooting. In this post, we will explain the major differences between the two scopes.

Riflescope Overview

Rifle scopes as we know provide magnifications for long ranges enabling shooters to have precise shots. The scopes feature lenses or sometimes a combination of lenses and prisms to magnify targets at long distances. In general, most rifle scopes provide a magnification of 3x to 20x.

Rifle scopes feature precisely machined rings that clamp to rails on top of rifles. The rails hold the scope and rifle together for easy zeroing on targets.

Muzzleloader Scope Overview

Muzzleloader scopes work in a similar manner as riflescopes. They feature objective lenses and ocular lenses. They can also use either lenses or prisms. Unlike rifle scopes, muzzleloader scopes top out at a maximum of 9X magnification. This is because of the long-distance at which they can shoot and the strong recoil.

So, what are the main differences between a muzzleloader scope and a rifle scope? Let’s have a look at these two under different categories.

Eye relief

This is where we have a major difference between the two scopes. Eye relief is the distance you can hold your head behind the scope when zeroing on targets. Muzzleloader scopes tend to have a greater eye relief than rifle scopes. Most muzzleloader scopes have an eye relief of at least 5 inches. Riflescopes on the other hand have an eye relief of at least 3.5 inches. This is because muzzleloader scopes tend to have more recoil as opposed to riflescopes.

When hunting larger games at short ranges, you need a powerful rifle to ensure an immediate kill. A muzzleloader scope for deer hunting is a great choice since it can withstand stronger recoils. The kick from a muzzleloader can be immensely powerful leading to strong recoils. The longer eye relief is designed to keep your eye further away when shooting.

It is recommended that you have at least 4 inches of eye relief when shooting on a muzzleloader scope. While most rifle scopes have an eye relief of 3-4 inches, you can find rifle scopes with as low as 1.5 inches of eye relief. However, rifle scopes with very small eye relief are intended for use on small caliber shooting.

Field of view

Riflescopes usually have a larger field of view as opposed to muzzleloaders. The field of view directly relates to eye relief. While muzzleloaders have larger eye relief, they have a small field of view. Hunting with a muzzleloader scope early in the morning and evening can be a little tricky. This is because of low light levels and a reduced field of view. You need the best muzzleloader scope for low light to hunt effectively early in the morning and late in the evening.

The choice on the right scope here comes to what you consider important. Do you take the field of view over eye relief? It comes down to what you’re hunting and the distance. If your targets are static, then the field of view should not be a major concern.


Parallax can be a little difficult to explain. In the real world, things closer to the eyes tend to move faster than when they are further away. This makes it tricky when looking for targets through the scope. When lining a reticle, it is a few inches from your eyes. However, the target is a few hundred yards away. This can be a problem when using optical devices. Most rifle scopes are designed to reduce parallax when viewing targets at 100 yards. However, most users might experience parallax when viewing beyond 100 yards. You will find most scopes with higher magnifications designed to reduce parallax at 200 to 400 yards.

Muzzleloader scopes are usually ideal for shooting at long ranges. Most manufacturers of muzzleloaders design parallax at 50 to 100 yards.

Reticle design

The reticle design is another important feature that brings major differences between the two scopes. Riflescopes usually feature standard crosshairs on their reticles. In addition, they also feature extra markings and lines. These lines are important in helping shooters make adjustments and shoot precisely. For example, rifle scope reticles feature a BDC ladder, (Bullet Drop Compensation). Bullets at long ranges will usually land lower from the center shown on the scope. The BDC ladder helps you compensate for the drop so that you hit the desired spot.

Muzzleloader scopes also feature a reticle design but their BDC ladder is quite different from the one in rifle scopes. The BDC ladder on muzzleloader scopes usually reflects the velocity and size of the muzzleloader shots. They vary from one muzzleloader to another even when the caliber of the bullet is the same.

It is important to note the drop of the bullet over a certain distance changes depending on the projectile size and velocity. Muzzleloader scopes don’t rely on markings or lines on the crosshairs to make fine adjustments for the bullet drop. Instead, they rely on the size and velocity of the projectile.

Final verdict

In conclusion, these two scopes are close to being the same but have major differences in specs size. Both scopes can serve you well depending on the situation. You will not see any major difference at first glance. However, a critical analysis of the features brings out clear differences. We’ve discussed the differences and their effects. There is no better or worse choice. You just need to understand your purpose, range, and rifle and choose accordingly.